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Just
as diamonds can be evaluated
by their 4c’s,
there are six ways to
evaluate the quality
of your pearl.
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| If
you look closely at a
pearl, you will see that
it is made up of a blend
of colors just like anything
in nature. The structure
of nacre layers around
a pearl allow light to
penetrate and display
a shimmering optical effect.
A pearl’s color
can be determined by
three components: body
color, overtone, and
orient.
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Body color
is the overall color
of a pearl and depends
on the combination
of its hue, tone,
and saturation.
Pearls can have
a light or dark
tone and tend to
have low color saturation
which results in
a soft glow. |
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Overtone
is secondary to
body color and is
one or more subtle,
translucent colors
that lie across
a pearl’s
surface. Many pearls
display no overtone,
but some display
one or more overtones,
usually green, blue
or rosé –
which is a pink
overtone. The body
color still shows
through the overtone
as the pearl’s
main color. |
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In addition to body
color and overtone,
some pearls possess
a rare and beautiful
optical effect called
orient. Orient
is like the shifting
rainbow colors you
see on soap bubbles.
These rainbow hues
shimmer across the
pearl when light
hits the surface
and breaks into
different colors.
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Different oyster varieties
affect the color of
the pearl. For example,
the golden and silver-lipped
oysters in Australia
and Indonesia produce
the golden and silver-colored
South Sea pearls.
Pearls also come in
a rainbow of warm and
cool colors. Warm body
colors such as cream,
golden, white, and silver
are common with Akoya
and South Sea pearls.
Cool body colors such
as blue, green, violet,
and black are common
with Tahitian pearls.
Some of these fancy
colored pearls have
exotic names such as
apricot, champagne,
aubergine, peacock and
pistachio.
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| Nacre
is the very essence of
the pearl itself and is
deposited in microscopic
layers around the nucleus
by the mollusk.
High quality nacre
is durable and has excellent
or good luster. The
uniformity and alignment
of the nacre layers
are important, as well
as the thickness and
translucence.
For nacre to be of
high quality, it must
have a good combination
of these factors. High
translucence is important
because it permits better
refraction and reflection
of light – all
ingredients of luster.
A pearl with poor nacre
will appear chalky,
dull and whitish.
All of Spencer &
Spencer’s pearls
have high quality nacre.
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| The
true beauty of a pearl
lies in its luster. In
fact, luster is the most
important factor to the
beauty of a pearl. Luster
is not just the shimmer
on a pearl’s surface,
but it is caused by light
traveling down through
translucent layers of
nacre and reflecting back
to the eye from deep within
the pearl. The effect
is a glow from the inside
of the pearl.
A pearl with excellent
luster will look bright
and shiny. The sharper
the reflection of light
is on a pearl, the higher
the luster.
South Sea cultured
pearls tend to have
a soft, satiny luster,
whereas fine Akoya cultured
pearls have a bright,
mirror-like gloss.
Because pearl-bearing
mollusks are sensitive,
the most lustrous pearls
are from mollusks in
cooler waters, stress-free
and pollution-free environments.
Spencer & Spencer
only works with pearl
farmers who value a
clean environment and
maintain these conditions
for their mollusks.
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The
size of a pearl not
only depends on the
size of the implanted
nucleus in an oyster,
but also nacre thickness
and the size of the
mollusk that produced
it. A larger mollusk
will usually produce
a larger pearl.
Pearls are measured
in millimeters (mm)
and come in different
sizes depending on whether
they are Akoya, Freshwater,
South Sea or Tahitian
pearls. All factors
being equal, larger
pearls are rarer and
more valuable than smaller
pearls
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Saltwater
Oyster |
Saltwater
Oyster |
Saltwater
Oyster |
Freshwater
Mussel |
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Japan,
China |
Australia,
Indonesia, Philippines
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French
Polynesia, Cook
Islands |
China,
Japan, US |
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5cm
- 13cm |
12cm
- 17cm |
7cm
- 13cm |
5cm
- 6cm |
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2mm
- 9mm |
10mm
- 15mm |
8mm
- 14mm |
4mm
- 11mm
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| There
are many different shapes
of pearls just like there
are for other gemstones,
such as round, near-round,
baroque, oval shaped,
drops, button, mabé
and semi-baroque. Some
pearls have unique ridged
rings and are described
as circled pearls.
Round and near-round
pearls are generally
the rarest and most
valuable pearl shape
and all of our Akoya
pearl earrings and strands
are set with round and
near-round pearls. Our
Freshwater pearl jewelry
has pearls that are
usually near-round or
oval.
With our larger South
Sea and Tahitian jewelry,
we are proud to be able
to offer a variety of
shapes and styles to
suit your taste and
your budget. Not only
do we have round and
near-round South Sea
and Tahitian pearls,
but also unique pieces
with mabé pearls,
circled pearls and oval
shaped pearls. All of
our pearls are well-shaped
and symmetrical and
are of the highest quality
and all of our strands
are perfectly matched.
If there is a particular
pearl shape you are
looking for and would
like assistance with
customizing your jewelry,
please fill out our
custom request form.
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All
natural gems can have
inclusions or blemishes,
and pearls are no exception.
Cultured pearls are
organic, so blemishes
or surface characteristics
can develop as the oyster
is creating the pearl
and applying the layers
of nacre. A spotless
pearl is extremely rare
and valuable.
At Spencer & Spencer,
we make sure that our
pearls have the smoothest
surface and least amount
of blemishes. We avoid
choosing pearls with
heavy blemishes and
look for pearls with
minute surface characteristics
that are difficult to
see even for a trained
gemologist. |
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| Still
have Questions? You can
chat
live with a gemologist
Monday through Saturday,
8am to 5pm PST. Or call
us toll-free at 800-406-4494. |
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