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  Pearl Quality Guide   Akoya Pearls   South Sea Pearls   Tahitian Pearls   Freshwater Pearls  

Just as diamonds can be evaluated by their 4c’s, there are six ways to evaluate the quality of your pearl.

  Color
  Nacre Quality
  Luster
  Size
  Shape
  Surface Quality
If you look closely at a pearl, you will see that it is made up of a blend of colors just like anything in nature. The structure of nacre layers around a pearl allow light to penetrate and display a shimmering optical effect.

A pearl’s color can be determined by three components: body color, overtone, and orient.

  Body color is the overall color of a pearl and depends on the combination of its hue, tone, and saturation. Pearls can have a light or dark tone and tend to have low color saturation which results in a soft glow.
  Overtone is secondary to body color and is one or more subtle, translucent colors that lie across a pearl’s surface. Many pearls display no overtone, but some display one or more overtones, usually green, blue or rosé – which is a pink overtone. The body color still shows through the overtone as the pearl’s main color.
  Orient is a beautiful effect similar to the shifting rainbow colors you see on soap bubbles. These rainbow hues shimmer across the pearl when light hits the surface and breaks into different colors. Not all pearls possess this beautiful and rare optical effect.

Different oyster varieties affect the color of the pearl. For example, the golden and silver-lipped oysters in Australia and Indonesia produce the golden and silver-colored South Sea pearls.

Pearls also come in a rainbow of warm and cool colors. Warm body colors such as cream, golden, white, and silver are common with Akoya and South Sea pearls. Cool body colors such as blue, green, violet, and black are common with Tahitian pearls. Some of these fancy colored pearls have exotic names such as apricot, champagne, aubergine, peacock and pistachio.

Nacre is the very essence of the pearl itself and is deposited in microscopic layers around the nucleus by the mollusk.

High quality nacre is durable and has excellent or good luster. The uniformity and alignment of the nacre layers are important, as well as the thickness and translucence.

For nacre to be of high quality, it must have a good combination of these factors. High translucence is important because it permits better refraction and reflection of light – all ingredients of luster.

A pearl with poor nacre will appear chalky, dull and whitish.

All of Spencer & Spencer’s pearls have high quality nacre.

The true beauty of a pearl lies in its luster. In fact, luster is the most important factor to the beauty of a pearl. Luster is not just the shimmer on a pearl’s surface, but it is caused by light traveling down through translucent layers of nacre and reflecting back to the eye from deep within the pearl. The effect is a glow from the inside of the pearl.

A pearl with excellent luster will look bright and shiny. The sharper the reflection of light is on a pearl, the higher the luster.

South Sea cultured pearls tend to have a soft, satiny luster, whereas fine Akoya cultured pearls have a bright, mirror-like gloss.

Because pearl-bearing mollusks are sensitive, the most lustrous pearls are from mollusks in cooler waters, stress-free and pollution-free environments. Spencer & Spencer only works with pearl farmers who value a clean environment and maintain these conditions for their mollusks.

The size of a pearl not only depends on the size of the implanted nucleus in an oyster, but also nacre thickness and the size of the mollusk that produced it. A larger mollusk will usually produce a larger pearl.

Pearls are measured in millimeters (mm) and come in different sizes depending on whether they are Akoya, Freshwater, South Sea or Tahitian pearls. All factors being equal, larger pearls are rarer and more valuable than smaller pearls

Saltwater Oyster Saltwater Oyster Saltwater Oyster Freshwater Mussel
Japan, China Australia, Indonesia, Philippines French Polynesia, Cook Islands China, Japan, US
5cm - 13cm 12cm - 17cm 7cm - 13cm 5cm - 6cm
2mm - 9mm 10mm - 15mm 8mm - 14mm 4mm - 11mm
There are many different shapes of pearls just like there are for other gemstones, such as round, near-round, baroque, oval shaped, drops, button, mabé and semi-baroque. Some pearls have unique ridged rings and are described as circled pearls.

Round and near-round pearls are generally the rarest and most valuable pearl shape and all of our Akoya pearl earrings and strands are set with round and near-round pearls. Our Freshwater pearl jewelry has pearls that are usually near-round or oval.

With our larger South Sea and Tahitian jewelry, we are proud to be able to offer a variety of shapes and styles to suit your taste and your budget. Not only do we have round and near-round South Sea and Tahitian pearls, but also unique pieces with mabé pearls, circled pearls and oval shaped pearls. All of our pearls are well-shaped and symmetrical and are of the highest quality and all of our strands are perfectly matched.

If there is a particular pearl shape you are looking for and would like assistance with customizing your jewelry, please fill out our custom request form.

All natural gems can have inclusions or blemishes, and pearls are no exception. Cultured pearls are organic, so blemishes or surface characteristics can develop as the oyster is creating the pearl and applying the layers of nacre. A spotless pearl is extremely rare and valuable.

At Spencer & Spencer, we make sure that our pearls have the smoothest surface and least amount of blemishes. We avoid choosing pearls with heavy blemishes and look for pearls with minute surface characteristics that are difficult to see even for a trained gemologist.

Still have Questions? You can chat live with a gemologist Monday through Friday, 8am to 5pm PST. You can also call us toll-free at 800-406-4494 or e-mail us at questions@spencer-spencer.com.

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